The British occupation of India lasted just under two hundred years, and by the beginning of the last century, life there was being recorded on postcards to be sent by the thousand back home to England.

Families stationed in the subcontinent sent home amazing images of military barracks in the middle of nowhere or cities such as Calcutta or Delhi as well as cards showing the ‘daily life’ of ethnic Indians. Today many of these cards have found their way into postcard dealers’ stock but yet more are still kept in their original albums as family heirlooms showing where great-granddad served in the Army or the ICS (Indian Civil Service).

2 Bridge on the Simla Kalka Railway

Life in India meant certain standards had to be maintained and for those who worked for the Government the annual trip to the cooler environment of the hill station was almost obligatory. It was here that the British took refuge in the foothills of the Himalayas at Murree, Mussoorie, Naini Tal or Simla (the most glamorous of them all). Simla, or Shimla, is a town in northern India situated on the southern slopes of the Himalayas. It lies at an altitude of approx. 7220 ft. and from 1865 until 1931 was the summer capital of the British government in India. It was chosen, not only because it was easily accessible by road, and later, rail, but also because it was ideally situated to control the plains of northern India.

3 Barogh Station Kalka Sima Railway

It was Sir John Lawrence (the Governor General) who, in 1865, first decided to move the government from the muggy summer heat of Calcutta (the Indian capital until 1912, when Delhi temporarily took over) to the now famous hill station during the hottest months. The move was normally made in March and they returned to Calcutta (and later Delhi) in October. These laborious journeys continued until 1931 when New Delhi became the year-round capital.

At the beginning of the 19th century, Simla was only a small hamlet consisting of a few cottages tucked away in the hills but this all changed when Captain Charles Pratt Kennedy, Political Officer to the Hill States, built Simla’s first European house to use as his summer residence. From then until independence in 1947 Simla's population was in a continual state of flux. In the early years of its popularity, people came and went in quick succession, but as the British began to build or establish summer residences, and traders and other labourers were drawn to the town to offer their services (such as rickshaw pullers, porters, shop keepers etc.), Simla began to be regarded as their home town albeit for only a few months of the year.

4 The Snowdown Residence

The town provided an Eastern version of England for the homesick Victorians. The landscape resembled the highlands of Scotland with flowers and trees that were very British along with both snow and refreshing breezes that also helped it gain the reputation of a sanatorium. It was one of the few places in India were the British could relax among their own kind and as the social make-up of society was quite mixed (it included ladies spending the season alone while their husbands stayed in the heat of the plains, members of the infamous ‘fishing fleet’ young, chaperoned, women newly arrived from England in search of a husband, as well as numerous unattached ‘Captains’ willing to fill the role) it gave rise to many ‘hill scandals’ and rumours abounded. To keep everyone occupied during the season there were many entertainments such as gymkhanas (some held by moonlight), polo matches, balls, dances and clubs like the Simla Amateur Dramatic Club, which was one of the earliest in the Country and regularly put on shows at the Gaiety Theatre.

5 Christ Church and Town Hall

The journey to Simla was an arduous one once you left Kalka (640 metres above sea level) in the plains and started the hill ascent by the Cart Road to your destination at 2,060 feet above sea level. This was originally called the ‘Great Hindostan-Thibet Road’ and work began on it in 1850 under the supervision of Major Kennedy. Horse drawn tongas owned by a Mrs Lumley (who also owned hotels in both Kalka and Simla) soon replaced bullock carts as a means of getting up to Simla. In 1918 it would have cost you 35 rupees to complete the journey with rubber tyres or 10 Rs less for iron ones! Suprisingly it was not until 1903 that the Kalka - Simla railway link was opened. Its building had been delayed mainly because of the cost involved in constructing a railway in such difficult terrain. It ended up covering a distance of 95 km and between the two stations were 103 tunnels, 800 bridges and 900 curves that had to be built through the dramatic scenery. The longest tunnel was at Barog at over 1km long and the longest viaduct was nearly 3km in length. The whole journey took about six hours of wobbling and lurching to complete, swaying along the edge of sheer precipices, darting through tunnels and over viaducts as well as passing through stunning although fleetingly glimpsed scenery.

6 A Peep in the Bazar

Once in Simla the only forms of transport available to the majority of people were rickshaws or horses (only the Viceroy, the Commander in Chief and the Governor of the Punjab were allowed carriages and later motor cars). Rickshaws were introduced in 1880, and were pulled by up to four migrants from neighbouring hill states, but they vanished by the beginning of the First World War after many complaints on humanitarian grounds.

The main road running through the centre of Simla was ‘The Mall’ - it was fashionable to ‘be seen’ walking or riding in a rickshaw along this road and it was flanked by the many European shops and buildings. Leading off were the many roads leading up or down the slopes to the native parts of the town. The largest stretch of level ground, known as Annandale, was approached by a sharp descent and it was here that cricket matches or gymnkhanas were held.

7 Viceregal Lodge Simla

Lord Dufferin became Viceroy in 1884 and was responsible for the building of a new Viceregal Lodge on Observatory Hill. it was a spectacular building, inspired by the English renaissance, and designed by Henry Irwin. It dominated the surrounding area, the main block has three storeys while another part has five and yet another, two storeys. On one of the turrets flew a flag announcing the presence of the Viceroy in Simla. The bulk of the interior was designed by Maples of Tottenham Court Road, London and included state rooms and an impressive ballroom. Upstairs were the Viceroys study as well as many bedrooms and sitting rooms, all with splendid views. However many visitors found fault with its size and wasted space, and years later, Lord Elgin had a retreat built (Oaklands) in the woods of the estate which resembled an English country cottage and served as the Viceroys suburban residence.

In the centre of Simla is the hill of Jakho, it looms over the town. On its peak is a temple dedicated to Hanuman, who, according to the epic Ramayana, stopped here while searching for a herb that would cure Lakshman, who lay mortally wounded on the battlefield. A 1906 account of a climb up this hill mentions that the temple was inhabited not only by an old fakir but also by tribes of sacred monkeys, which he fed. These monkeys only stayed for about a week and were then replaced by another tribe also eager to climb among the trees and rocks.

8 Simla monkeys on Jakho

As the Second World War loomed Simla finally lost its status as India’s summer capital. It was decided that moving the entire government to the hills each year would hinder the war effort and so it remained in New Delhi. Sadly an era had come to an end and the ‘season’ was finally over for the beloved hill-station.

The Cards

1/ Mail Tonga
This printed card shows a mail tonga on the Mall. It would have been the main way of bringing the mail to the summer residents, by climbing the Cart Road up to Simla from the plains, in the days before the railway was built.

2/ Bridge on the Simla-Kalka Railway near Kanol
This card shows the steam train crossing one of the many bridges on the Kalka to Simla Railway line. The image was taken by F Bremner of Lahore and Quetta.

3/ Barogh Station Kalka Simla Railway
This printed, coloured card is one of a number published by Harnam Dass and Sons of Ambala, and shows a steam train having just come out of the longest tunnel, number 34, on the Kalka to Simla line. The longest tunnel was situated at Barog and an early account of travel along the line states that ‘the train takes about four minutes to pass through (the Barog Tunnel) but the lights are switched on to prevent furtive kissing.’

4/ The Snowdown Residence of HE the C in Chief Simla
This printed card (by H A Mirza and Sons Delhi) shows the official residence of the His Excellency The Commander in Chief. It is on the many slopes that make up Simla. The architecture varies from Gothic to mock Tudor set amongst the rhododendrons and the tall cedars, quite unlike its Himalayan village neighbours.

5/ Christ Church and Town Hall from the Post Office Simla
This view of The Mall shows what was the main road through the centre of Simla. It was washed daily by mashkis with goat hide bags strapped to their backs. Those who travelled its length had to conform to a dress code that was strictly enforced. Open necked shirts were definitely out! The Mall was lined with shops, hotels, the Post Office and other administrative buildings as well as Christ Church at its end. The Ridge lies to the right of The mall and after a fire in 1875 was opened up to allow the relocation of many shops and the Town Hall.

6/A Peep in the Bazar
This lovely postcard shows part of the Lower Bazaar. It was situated off the Mall down one of the many steep slopes. (Steps leading up can be seen in the background). All the cramped buildings in this part of Simla were wooden and inhabited by native traders whose lives were hardly affected by the influx of the British.

7/Viceregal Lodge Simla
This coloured card was also published by D Macropolo and is numbered SM (for Simla) 854. The Viceregal Lodge was a constant reminder of the Colonial and Imperial authority of the British Raj.

8/ Monkeys on Jakho
This postcard, publisher unknown, was posted in December 1904 and shows some of the many monkeys for which Simla is famous.